Love Letter to the County
I have a crush on Aroostook County, and I think you should too.
I grew up in Maine but until recently I had never made it “up north.” A few years ago, we went as far as Millinocket to run the Millinocket Half Marathon. We had an amazing weekend and the realization that we were still only halfway there made me realize there was a lot more our state had to offer, and I wanted to see more.
The year after Millinocket, we finally got our opportunity to continue the journey with an invitation to come to Presque Isle for the Aroostook County Brew & Wine Fest. What a great event! The crew organizing it was so kind and hospitable, and all the attendees were so easy and fun. Plus, the brew fest is also in the fall, and I have never seen foliage as vast and colorful.
While the drive is long, even that has become something we look forward to. Each mile reveals more beauty as you leave the orbits of the busy cities. As you get further north some of the farms were as large as what I had seen in parts of California. There seemed to be miles and miles of potatoes and broccoli. Did you know we grew broccoli in Maine?
There is a growing Amish community in the area so we saw multiple horse-drawn buggies sharing the roads with some serious trucks. My favorite was a horse and buggy going through the drive-through at a bank.
A solar system replica is along U.S. Route 1 from Presque Isle to Houlton so, as you are driving through farmland, suddenly, there is a large planet on the side of the road, enhancing the sensation that you really were leaving the known world behind.
Everyone we have met has been so friendly. While I’m sure everyone could tell we were from out of town, we were always made to feel welcome wherever we went. There was a sense of community and respect that isn’t always present when you’re in one of Maine’s more heavily visited tourist towns. In fact, when we told people were from Portland many looked at us with wide eyes. “Oof, I couldn’t imagine living down there; the traffic, the crowds??” Or someone told stories of an uncle’s wild visit to Portland in the 90s. While we love Portland, it was refreshing to have a change of scenery and a different perspective of what “The Way Life Should (Really) Be.”
There just seems to be a sense of pride in the area. People seem happy to be there and content with their lives. Doesn’t that sound nice?
Each time we drive to the County we say that if a few factors in life were different, we could see living up there too. I still hope to have an Aroostook County farm grow rhubarb for us, and I would LOVE to make wine just with rhubarb from the area. It is just a special place. We feel lucky to have made it up a handful of times and we look forward to going back.
If you are thinking of making the trip up, here are a few highlights we have had:
Places to Eat
Rock's Family Diner is full of characters for breakfast, and the food is cooked with lots of love and butter. As you enjoy a delicious breakfast, you can look right out the windows at the Canadian border.
The Voyageur Lounge at The Inn of Acadia was recommended to us by the amazing folks at Bob’s Service Center, and it was fantastic.
Dolly’s Restaurant was recommended by most people we talked to.
In Presque Isle, there are classic Maine spots like Pat's Pizza and Governer’s. Remember Governer’s? All I remember was a model train that traveled above the dining area and had the best crayons and coloring options.
I must say, it is also nice to leave dinner for two with cocktails with a $60-$70 tab versus above $100 in Portland.
Drinking Spots
First, on your way up (or back), you need to stop at Thirsty Dawg in Houlton. This place is like a maze of the most unique beers you can get. It is stacked floor to ceiling with the best Maine beers and hard-to-get beers from Massachusetts. It feels like you stepped into a can-art museum!
First Mile Brewing in Fort Kent has a good selection of different beers and seltzers.
If you are looking for our wine in the crown of Maine, you can find it at Thirsty Dawg in Houlton, Merchants on the Corner in Presque Isle, and Bob’s Service Center in Madawaska.
Places to Stay
Northeastland Hotel is right in the middle of Presque Isle. You can walk the town and pop in the little shops and businesses. The diner attached has a great breakfast, and the bar on the other side makes a good stiff drink for an excellent nightcap before bed.
St John River Resort is more remote and it is pet-friendly. We stayed in the winter, and it seems to be a popular choice for snowmobilers. I honestly slept harder in their super comfy bed than I have in a long time. Milo loved the snow banks by the river although we were a little concerned our little city idiot might not make the best decisions if he ran into a moose or a bear.
We have enjoyed our trips to the County and look forward to more. I have a county bucket list: to see a moose (alive), do a canoe trip on one of the rivers, go snowmobiling, and to keep feeling that sense of relaxation that seems unlike how I have felt anywhere else.
I think this sign we saw hanging in the entryway of Rock’s Family Diner says it best:
Up North
There’s a lot of talk about “up north.”
It’s the place everyone seems to want to go to escape the frantic pace of everyday life.
But where is “up north”?
For “up north” is not so much a location as it is a state of mind...
So, how do you know when you’ve arrived “up north”?
When you feel the cares of the world begin to slip away...
When you feel yourself breathing a little deeper because the air seems purer somehow...
When you notice the sky is bluer, the trees taller, and the people smile a lot...
Then you know you’re “up north”!
